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3AW Pub of the Week
6th October 2007
Score: 14.75
What happens when you are the new owners of an absolute landmark hotel in Melbourne. Are you tempted to change the feel/look of this pub, is it do nothing and steer the same course, or do try to ramp up a part of the pub to increase trade?
With a huge sigh of relief, it is the latter and that is where I will focus this week's review.
Bank Place joins Lt. Collins and Collins just up from Queen St. It is a hive of eating/dining activities with most tastes catered for in the 100m strip. The pride has always been the Mitre, with its outside dining in a lane running off Bank always popular.
At street level inside it is mainly city suits and the bar remains intact; lowish ceiling, wooden features, bar stools aplenty and a dining room punching out pub favourites, e.g. parma for $16.80, burgers, pastas etc. It is doesn't need to change to adjust to trends.
However, the new owners have lovingly created The Mitre Steakhouse and Grill. At the top of the stairs, you are met by a small, almost "members only" bar. The dining room with its leather seating, lead-light windows and deep, plush tones, you can easily escape the worries of the world for a few hours. The only downside is that it is accessible only by the staircase.
But the Grill succeeds. By a long margin too. Indeed, the new owners have created the closest venue to the much-loved Club Grill of the old Southern Cross in town that I can remember.
Food is top notch but it comes at a price. Entrees include a beef/chicken/lamb skewer ($13.50) coming with 3 dipping sauces. A marinated crispy skinned duck breast, wild rocket and orange, on marinated vegetables comes in at $17.9. Full table service, linen napkins, bread, water are an integral part of the package.
There is some calamari, Atlantic salmon and pork ribs, but it's the steaks that dominate.
Eye, porterhouse, grain rump, rib, scotch, in sizes from 200-600g, starting at $28. All come with a ripper mash and a range of sauces.
I tried the 300g porterhouse, at $29, it was magnificent. Cooked medium-rare as ordered, the sauce that supported it (wild mushroom) was as good as you could get. Garlic Chats ($4), Rocket, Parmesan and Balsamic ($6) are a couple of the sides on offer.
Top of the board is the Meat Lovers Platter ($84 for 2). This dish had char grilled snags, rump, chicken breast, lamb skewers, pork ribs, field mushrooms and side sauces.
The wine list befits the room. Great bottles across all varietals. The Estate DeBortoli Gulf Station Pinot at $40 was outstanding shopping.
The upstairs Grill has its own 20 seater dining/function room. Part of the strategy for The Grill is to capture that CBD market that heads off to South/North/Port Melbourne for the business lunch, while not alienating the loyal clientele downstairs.
They are succeeding on both ambitions. Long may the mighty Mitre reign.
